Mania and Hong Kong

Monday, Feb. 25, At Sea

9:52 A.M. 9 degrees 52 minutes, 117 degrees 13 minutes, seals calm and rippled, traveling at 19.5 knots, temp 81 air, 82 sea. Ocean 5,000 feet deep. 304 traveled from Brunei, 392 to go to Manila and Asia’s largest shopping mall, complete with an ice rink. Frankly, I’d kill for an hour in a Wal Mart.

Tuesday, Feb. 26, Manila, Philippines

The ship was welcomed with large signs, what was probably a local high school band, steel drums, and several groups of singers and dancers in native costume. Very impressive. As was the rain. Between heavy showers we managed to get around the city as well as the various stalls on the pier.

Alan found a couple from the ship to share a sightseeing tour and I hopped the bus for a trip to the Mall of Asia. The bus ride and traffic showed me all I wanted to see in Manila. The Mall was enormous, with about 500 shops, restaurants, travel agencies, bookstores, movie complexes, a department store, a grocery store, hair dressers, etc. I came back to the ship empty handed as
l. you needed local money and
2. Size XXL might fit a size 10 in the states.

Everything was immaculate from the displays to the window glass to the sales people.
Each sales person said “good morning, Madam” until I was almost tired of smiling and greeting them back. We’re talking about 10 sales people in the space of about 40 feet or less.

If you think you have seen security in the US, try Manila. There is a little sidewalk police sub-station every five or six blocks on the main road along the harbor and machine gun carrying guards on the pier along with German shepherds. At the mall,
I saw more security people than customers and there was a bag check at each entrance to the department store. Most of the ship’s passengers said they felt uncomfortable walking the streets but I felt very safe in the mall and on the bus.

I shared a seat on the bus with an interesting woman from the ship who played competitive tennis at Wimbledon! She didn’t say what year but I would guess it was a few ago. She also used to travel the world by freighter. We meet again on the bus coming back and she had gotten a hair cut. Scalp and shoulder massage, wash, cut, blow dry , face makeup and tip. $10 US. As someone remarked, that’s about the cost of the tip in the states.

In his 1:00 message the Captain said that many people had asked if we would be able to see Corregidor from the ship as we sailed away from Manila. Word was that it would be visible from the starboard at about 7 p.m. Several people were on the stern deck around 7 peering off into the distance. I am sure that given the age of the passengers on this cruise there were many more in other parts of the ship hoping for a view of the tiny island where so many thousand died. It was very disappointing that there was no acknowledgement of where we were or what sacrifices had been made in order that we could be here.

Wednesday, Feb. 27 At Sea….A very rough sea.

After bouncing off a few walls in the corridors and worrying about where the nearest rest room was, I decided I could find plenty to do in the safety of our cabin. Winds up to 47 knots and waves 12-18 feet.

Thursday, Feb. 28 Hong Kong

Time again for a bit of history.

Hong Kong consists of the mainland portion and about 266 island. One of the largest, Kowloon, will be where the Amsterdam docks. To reach Hong Kong we will have to take a ferry across Victoria Harbor or a bus or taxi through the tunnel.

The British took control of Hong Kong in 1841 following the Opium Wars. European trade with China had been taking place since the 16th century, but as the European demand for tea and silk grew, the balance of trade became more unfavorable to the Europeans, who were expected to pay in silver. In 1773, the British unloaded 155,000 pounds of Bengal opinion and the Chinese taste for the “foreign mud” grew exponentially. Alarmed at the drain of silver from the country and the increasing number of addicts, the emperor banned the drug trade. However, the Europeans and corrupt Chinese officials kept the opium trade going until 1839. To shorten the story (which you probably learned in high school), after a series of battles, the British won and gained a 99 year lease. The lease was up in 1997 and Hong Kong reverted back to China as the Hong Kong Special Administrative Region (SRA), operating according to a one country, two systems policy to help ease the transition and to keep the city’s economy thriving.

After breakfast on the first day of our two day stay, we ventured out into Hong Kong.

Where to begin……there was so much to see and to take in that our two days could fill a book. Words cannot describe the city! Nor can pictures. Nothing can capture the sounds, the smells, the frantic pace, the high rises, the markets for the Chinese inhabitants, the double decker buses, the neon, the masses of people. Hong Kong is small --only 422 square miles but has 100,000 people per square mile.
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Our first venture was to cross Victoria Harbor to the city itself. We were docked in the Ocean Terminal, a huge (I use that word a great deal) complex of shops, restaurants and the like. The terminal encompasses two or three blocks and is a maze to negotiate. Our reference point was Toys R Us, the largest toy store in China. To get to Hong Kong we took the famous Star Ferry whose fleet has been in operation since 1898. The fare is about 24 cents US but free for seniors. The boats make 450 trips a day, operating from early morning until 11:30 at night. The ride took about 15 minutes and we were surrounded by men and women in dark suits with briefcases. After the colorful clothing in ports we have visited HK clothing was a shock. The boats are double-ended so making docking and departures are fast as they don’t have to turn around. The long bench seats have backs which flip over so you can always be facing forward.


Once in the city we walked for blocks trying to find where to get the bus to the tram to Victoria Peak. We were told “everyone” speaks English but this is not true. Many people we asked for directions tried to be helpful but it was very difficult to understand most of them And many did not have a clue as to the places we were seeking. We found this strange because everyone we talked to at home mentioned the Stanley Market but a lot of the residents didn’t know what we were talking about.

I hate to be negative as many people were very helpful and tried very hard to give us directions but I have to mention the bus and tram drivers. And the people in the MTR (like our subway) information booths. They were without a doubt, the surliest, unfriendly, rudest people we have every encountered. One fellow whom we were referred to for directions (the sign above him said “Information”) finally took his Ipod ear plugs out, glanced up from his newspaper (probably was a betting sheet) and grunted, “#25.”

In spite of our problems with the system we bought an Octopus Pass which allowed us to use the trams, buses, and trains. We could even use it in stores and places like McDonald’s for purchases. You pay varying amounts for the card and as you scan it on the bus or wherever the fare is deducted. Since you otherwise pay cash (exact amount or over --no change given) the pass is the way to go.

After walking for blocks ---all uphill--we found a bus to take us to the Peak Tram to the summit of Victoria Peak.
The tram was opened in 1881 and until 1926 there were three classes. First was restricted to government officials and Peak residents, second for soldiers and policemen and third for servants of Peak residents.

Rising 1,800 feet above the city and harbor the Peak offers incredible views ---when there is no haze nor smog. We were lucky and had little haze. And yes, there is a McDonald’s up there. Fortunately we were at the Tram before the line stretched down the street and around the corner. The tram runs uphill for with a gradient of beween 4 to 27 degrees.
On the trip up we had to stand and it was difficult staying upright. The trip back down was more interesting as we could spend more time looking out the windows instead of trying to stay on our feet

After wandering around trying to find the bus to Stanley Market we found bu #6 and climbed to the second deck for the ride of a lifetime. Hong Kong is mountainous, the roads are narrow, the buses tall and long, the drivers fearless, the steering wheel on the “wrong” side. I suppose there are more hair raising trips but this one was an experience.
And the sight of Hong Kong was spectacular. Hundred of skyscrapers, older lower buildings, wash hanging from balconies, tennis courts, and the beach and Hotels at Recluse Bay.

We ran into several other passengers from the Amsterdam at the market place and had lunch with Bob & Phylis. For just under a hundred dollars Alan and I each had a sandwich and a cup of coffee. HK dollars that is. Equal to about $14USbut it’s still a bit of a shock to see the prices and takes a little getting used to converting the currency.

Stanley Market was fascinating with all manner of little shops and alleyways off alleyways. The hustle for the dollar is there but the people were friendly and helpful. According to others, Stanley Market isn’t the bargain place it used to be but it was fun to wonder around.

After a quick dinner onboard, we staked out a spot to watch the 8 pm light show. Many of the buildings around the harbor flashed lights, sent out beams of colored light all accompanied by music (which we couldn’t hear as we were up on the ship). The show goes on night after night.

At 8:45 or so (PM) we headed out for the night market. An entire back street was closed to traffic and for block after block we wandered up and down between stalls that had to be put up and taken down each night. Most of the stuff was what you would expect to find at a flea market --one with an Asian style. In addition to the stalls of merchandise --new and old ---there were hundreds of restaurants. Don’t think Board of Health….the dishes were washed in a tub of water on the side walk, people sat at tables or squatted on the sidewalks, beer flowed, the customers were young, old, middle-aged and families. We wondered why we saw so many families with kids under the age of 6 or 7 out eating at 10 at night.

Of course we walked for several block before we found the bus back to the Ocean Terminal and two weary foot-sore travelers climbed into bed.

Friday, Feb. 29 Leap Year day of whatever they call it.

Back out in the morning. We’re getting to be old hands at hopping on and off the Star Ferry. We wandered, we shopped, we poked, we marveled at all the people. We found ourselves in an area of street upon street of markets of fruits, vegetables, meats, poultry, spices, noodles, fish, and herbal medicines. Think the Haymarket Square of 50 years ago. Now think bigger and bigger and bigger. The fruits and vegetables were so colorful, many of them unusual and unknown to us, enormous and beautiful. Vegetarians would think they had died and gone to heaven. Until they rounded the corner and saw the meat, poultry and fish stalls. Everything was laid out on tables along the street, the fish were dried, salted, fresh or alive. A few jumped out of their buckets and flopped around on the street. Eels swam in pails. Varieties of fish we had never seen swam in aerated buckets or tanks. Live chickens squawked in cages. Dead chickens hung from hooks. Chicken parts lay in trays. Half pigs dripping blood hung from hooks, as did every other meat and some you wouldn’t recognize. Baskets
filled with offal lined the sidewalks, dirty water ran down the gutters. For a non-meat eater it was not the place to be. But it was a part of HK most tourists don’t see. Certainly no one I talked to later had been where we went.

Back to Kowloon ---we’re old hands at the Star Ferry now --and we find a western toilet in McDonald’s. I wasn’t about to try and figure out how to use the porcelain bowl set into the floor of the stall at the other public toilets we’ve found. I guess I had best find out before we get to Cambodia or Vietnam.

Off to Nathan Road we went. Nathan road is known as the Golden Mile and is lined with shops both pricey and trashy. After a couple of hours of walking Alan was worn out and went back to the ship while I continued on. Strangely enough, after his couple of hours of rest we accidentally meet later in the area of the Star Ferry.

Another light show at 8 pm, a HK cultural show in the Queen’s Lounge, finally a movie relative to the cruise, Memoirs of a Geisha, a sail-a-way party on the upper deck and we set sail at 11 pm for Halong Bay, Vietnam.

March 1, Saturday, At Sea. Rabbit, Rabbit, Rabbit.

A fairly restful day to catch up on the blog, sorting papers and ironing something for the Chinese Theme Dinner.

A meeting was held for the 54 people taking the overland to Angkor Wat in a few days. e fly from Phu My, Vietnam to Seim Reap on day one, and have a wake up call for 4:15 am day two to see the temples at sunrise. Yikes!