from Russia with love and ports between

Tuesday, March 25, at sea

At noon we're sailing in the Suez Straight at 29.9 N and 32.48 E. Since leaving Safaga sometime after mid-night last night we've traveled 176 miles at 17 knots.
40 miles to go and we'll anchor, the captain will do the necessary paper work, and we'll wait until 6:30 tomorrow morning to begin our northbound transit through the Suez

It's considerably cooler than yesterday. 68 degrees air tem and 72 water. The sea is only 150 feet deep. We have Egypt on one side of the ship and the Sinai Peninsular on the other. Glad they are all getting along better than they were a few years ago.

The day after tomorrow we will be in Alexandria and after our scheduled ship's tour hope to go to the catacombs. Getting into the funerary complex is supposed to be somewhat arduous so a tour is not offered.
Since the last entry we've been through the Suez Canal, to Alexandria and Istanbul and Russia so I have a lot of catching up to do.

We arrived at the entrance to the Suez in the late afternoon of Tuesday the 25th and anchored out with the rest of the ships waiting for a morning transit. We later found out that 37 ships would be traveling northbound in the convoy. A large container ship was first, the Amsterdam was second (no explanation ---we had been told that cruise ships were first unless bumped by warships), and the rest followed. The ships were spaced out so we could only see about 4 or 5 behind us and the 4th and 5th couldn't be made out very well.

It was up at dawn ---thank goodness they provide coffee and rolls on deck for these early morning events. The rolls all seem the same but are given names for the port we are in. We've had Panama rolls, Sydney rolls, Suez rolls and so on.

Somehow after the Panama Canal and its locks the entrance to the Suez was a bit anti-climatic. It took the Amsterdam 8.5 hours (we had been told it would take 11) to make the trip from the Straits of Suez to the Mediterranean. The first year of the canal's operation it took 40 hours.

The contrast between the Sinai Peninsular side and the Egyptian side is very marked. (With my rusty history I thought the Sinai belonged to Israel....So did several other people I asked. We finally found out that it was given back to Egypt after one of the "conflicts" between the two countries. I think it was part of the Camp David Accord.)

The Egypt side is very green in most areas as water is pumped in from the Nile. There are numerous villages along the banks, a couple of very large cities, and armed soldiers everywhere. The soldiers are in little camps with 3 or 4 tents, or are standing on top of sand dunes (one soldier per dune) along the banks, and in small military compounds. We saw only a few on the Sinai side but they must have been there. If you look carefully you can see the armed soldier at the top right. The other thing seemed to be just a little wooden stack of wood. We couldn't figure it out.

One interesting thing was thousands of large concrete blocks stacked up on pallets ready to be pulled, pushed or lifted into the canal. Egypt blocked the canal during two of the "conflicts" by scuttling ships in it. The removal proved to be very costly so now the Egyptians are prepared to block the canal again but with the blocks. Reminds you of just how fragile the peace is in this part of the world.


We were unaware that there is a tunnel from one side of the canal to the other, a swing railroad bridge, and a vehicular bridge. There are also numerous small ferries. Here is the Egyptian version of the On Time of Edgartown fame.
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The Egyptians are trying to encourage growth in the Sinai hence the tunnel and bridges. From the look of the landscape it will be a long time coming.
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The transit became a little boring at times but not enough to leave the deck for trivia or a book. I was afraid there would be something fascinating around the next bend. And there usually was.

In the middle of the Suez Canal there are two lakes. They are The Great Bitter Lake and the Lesser Bitter Lake. In one of the lakes we could see the southbound convey waiting to continue their journey after we had passed. Holland America had their port lecturer on the bridge broadcasting facts and things to look for all along the canal. It is very helpful even if I can't remember the things she told us.

In the late afternoon we entered the Mediterranean Sea and made our way to Alexandria.

Thursday, March 27. Alexandria
What a difference between the ship terminal in Alexandria and our last couple of ports. In Salaha and Safaga were a few docks, cranes and trucks in the middle of the desert. Alexandria was landscaped with trees, grass and fountains. And of course, venders. If I hear "10 postcards for a dollar again," it will be too soon. We took a HAL tour in the morning and had a great time. It's a bit disconcerting when you get on the bus and the first seat is reserved for SECURITY. At least he didn't have a machine gun, or any gun we could see and we had a great local guide.

Traffic was bad but nothing compared to Vietnam and India. The population of Alexandria is ONLY 8 million. Most of ancient Alexandria is under the modern city or underwater. Nothing remains of the lighthouse on the Pharos, one of the seven wonders of the world. The site of the Library of Alexandria is not even known but the new library is a wonder all its own. During the first half of our journey Captain Cook was the guy everyone talked about. Now it is Alexander the Great.

Our first stop was at the Fort of Qaitbay. It is a 15th century fort overlooking the entrance to the harbor and was built on the site of the Lighthouse. We had a wonderful time at the fort as it was a holiday and dozens of classes of school children were touring the fort. The kids were absolutely a joy. From first graders to high school boys they all waved, said hello and wanted to practice their English. In a country where you are told not to take pictures of people these kids and their parents or teachers were asking us to take them. Watching them horse around a little (but they stayed in line and in their groups very well) brought home the point that kids do the same things wherever they live or have been brought up.

The fort was interesting and contained a mosque, an unusual feature we are told. It looks like a sand castle from the distance.

It was then on to the Roman Amphitheater discovered quite recently during the digging of a foundation for a new apartment building. Restoration is ongoing. The site also contains many artifacts recovered in the undersea explorations of what is believed to be Cleopatra's palace.

Then it was on to the LIBRARY! I wouldn't have missed this stop---the Bibliotheca Alexandrina.. But first, a little history review.

In 331 BC, (or BCE if you are politically correct) Alexander the Great selected a site in Egypt for a capital. He died before completion but his successors in Egypt, the Ptolemies, built Alexandria and made it the intellectual capital of the world. In 288 BCE Plotemy created the Mouseion, or temple to the muses...part academy, part research, part library. 7000 scrolls, equivalent to more than 100,000 printed books filled the shelves (or scroll niches). The first system of cataloging books/manuscripts was created here. In 48 BCE part of the library was accidentally set on fire and burned. The library declined during the years of the Roman Empire and by 400 CE the library had vanished. Gone but not forgotten.

Under the auspices of President Mohamed Hosni Mubarak plans for a new library began. It was designed by a team from Norway and funded by the Egyptian government, and many other countries and individuals. The library consists of 3 buildings and faces the sea. It is such an unusual and symbolic design that one day it will be as recognizable as the Eiffel Tower, the Sydney Opera House and Big Ben.
The library has 11 levels, can accommodate up to 2,000 users, had 100 study rooms, and over 300 computers for patron's use. At the present time it contains 531,000 volumes and the stacks are pretty empty in anticipation of future acquisitions. The children's section contains 20,016 volumes and the young peoples, 18,859. The library was built to house up to 8 million volumes, 500,000 in the open stacks and the rest in storage facilities within the building. It houses permanent art and history collections as well as temporary exhibitions.
If you don't have a library card ----and supposedly anyone, even foreigners can get one ---you pay a fee to use the library. The daily fee is about $1.75 US for US citizens. I don't know what it is for Egyptains. The library's web site and www.bibalex.org and we were told that anyone can access it's data base. I'll have to wait until I get home but if anyone tries it, PLEASE, let me know how it works.

In the afternoon, Alan and I, along with our new Toronto friends Frank and Mike went to the catacombs.

What a great trip that was. After haggling with a cab driver who originally wanted $30 each and ended up taking $50 for the four of us we took off to areas I don't think many tourists travel. Of course the cab driver was anxious to take us to various shops and bazaars but we finally convinced him it was the catacombs and nothing else.

Known as the tombs of Kom-Elshokafa and Tigran Tomb the catacombs were discovered in 1990 when a donkey pulling a cart fell in a pit. (His skull and bones are in a glass case in the tombs.) The tombs date back to the 2nd century. They were cut into rock down the equivalent of 3 stories. You descend a circular stairway (slippery but dry). There are large chambers with "shelves" cut into the walls. There is also a burial chamber containing three recesses, each with a sarcophagus cut into the rock and decorated with flowers, symbol and drawings of Egyptian gods.

At several places we had to walk on narrow planks as about 6 inches of water was flowing in some parts of the underground chambers. Light came in from a couple of holes in the "ceiling"--3 stories above our heads and there were a few dim electric light fixtures. We were alone down there except for one group of about 6 French people who quickly left when we showed up. We picked up a guide somewhere along the way in one tomb and a tourist police officer in another. I guess I should say they picked us up. Both of course were eager for a tip. Which we gladly gave for even tho' their English wasn't much better than our Arabic or Egyptian, we gained some valuable information from them.
While we were underground the call to prayer for the Muslims began. It was pretty eerie hearing it reverberate around the stone walls.

Cameras weren't allowed. Even in pockets. Mine I surrendered to our cab driver....not happily but the since the "security" at the entrance checked my pocketbook I had no choice. Promising not to take pictures just didn't work. However, Frank kept his camera in his pocket and while we were alone in the tomb took a couple of pictures. Once the guide was with us, we thought picture taking was over but the guide indicated that if we had a camera picture taking was okay. As did the policeman!

On the way back to the ship as we were traveling down a 1.5 car wide city street, complete with electric street cars and vendors who had to remove some of their racks and tables to let the vehicles pass, we came to a traffic jam. A worse than usual one. We had come upon a Muslim funeral. The hearse was a battered and old white station wagon with a black draped old lady in the passenger seat and the coffin in the back. It was followed by about a hundred men on foot. No other women. We had just gotten past that one when along came a second. I guess the second one wasn't as popular or important because he/she had only about 25 mourners....one on a cell phone
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And speaking of Muslim women, almost all the women in Egypt wear head scarves---by choice according to our guide, not because it is required. Many women are dressed completely in a black burka and a few are completely veiled. It is a bit strange to see a veiled woman talking on a cell phone.

When we arrived back at the cruise terminal we had to show our passports to the policeman at the gate. Our driver reached across me and shook hands with the officer. I was just able to see folded money exchange hands. I guess it was a bribe so the cabbie could be parked inside the terminal gates. Everywhere we traveled people spoke of the corruption from high officials to the police and everyone in between or below. Fellow passengers even saw a well dressed man shake down a child beggar and find some bills the kid had hidden in a sock.


Friday, March 28 AT SEA
Spent the day the usual way, sleeping a bit later, sorting all the papers and notices we receive, filling laundry bags, lectures, bridge and trivia. Today we also had a "float your boat" contest. About a dozen teams constructed boats from anything they could find on the Amsterdam or ashore. Each boat had to stay afloat for about a minute or so in the hot tub (turned on and churning). Extra points were given for the number of coke cans that could be loaded onto or into the boat. Scoring also included originality of design. The designs as swell as the boat names were very clever. Flotation included everything from empty water bottles, beer cans and styrofoam. The winning boat was Noah's Ark complete with stuff animals sticking out all over it.



Saturday, March 29 ISTANBUL

Another incredible, indescribable city.

Istanbul is Europe's most populous city and the only city in the world that is in two continents, Asia and Europe. It's long history includes it being the capital of the Roma Empire, the Byzantine Empire, the Latin Empire and the Ottoman Empire.

The city can be a bit confusing as it is divided by the Bosporus with the Asia and European sections being connected by bridges. The Old City on the European side is divided by the Golden Horn, a natural harbor, and also connected by bridges. The Bosporus is the only oulet t of the Black Sea so it is easy to understand Istanbul’s (previously Constantinopolus) importance, At it’s narrowest point the Bosporus is only 2200 feet wide.

The Golden Horn provided a easy to defend harbor (so the ancients thought) and at various times a chains were stretched across the opening. However, on two occasions invading armies carried their ships over the surrounding hills and attacked from the sides of the city.

Water was supplied by large two-tired aqua ducts, parts of which are still standing. During a siege the aqua ducts could be destroyed or the water poisoned so hundreds of enormous cisterns were built underground. More on the cisterns later. Or one of them.

The city was surrounded by a 13 mile wall which you can still see today. In some places the wall is incorporated into buildings, forming one or more sides of the structure.

Istanbul had a mystical appearance as we sailed from the Darinelles into Maraman Sea and then the Bosporus. The minarets of some of the 2,000 mosques rise high above old and new buildings, and the Blue Mosque, the Hagia Sophia and the Topkapi Palace are clearly seen.

Our tour took us past through the Old City with photo stops along the way. One stop was the Hippodrome --now buried underground. Remember Ben Hur and the chariot race? Deciding to skip the carpet making demonstration we hopped off the bus and found our way into the Grand Bazaar. The Bazaar was founded in 1461 and the covered area totals 30 square miles with 65 streets and over 3000 shops selling everything from tacky souvenirs to beautiful carpets, gold and silver. It contains a mosque, several restaurants, 7 fountains, one well and is entered through 18 gates. It closes at 7 pm and approximately 50 security guards patrol it at night. When we had exhausted ourselves but only a portion of the shops, we decided it was time to find the shuttle bus. Problem---- like Singapore, Hong Kong and other places...we were lost. When we asked which way out....the response was which gate do you want? Finally we found a police station within the bazaar and were told a general direction to try. It was basically, left, right, right, left, left and then straight. We came across another passenger from the Amsterdam who had been in the bazaar several times and she pointed us to the correct gate. A brisk walk up a couple of streets and there was the shuttle bus!

All day the temperature was in the low 50s with a bitter wind. Quite a change from a few days before of temps in the 100s. Jackets, gloves and even ear muffs were quite evident, on both passengers and local residents.

Sunday, March 30 Istanbul

Another tour, this time to the Asia side first. It was still “chilly,” especially our first stop, the Beylerbeyi Palace right on the water. This was the summer palace/hunting lodge of Sultan Abdulazis built between 1861 and 1865 The palace contains 24 rooms and 6 halls.
Our house in Falmouth, plus the houses of at least two neighbors would fit into a couple of the halls.
Because of the dampness from the river, the floors (except for the one parquet floored room) have rush matting covered with oriental carpets. Even the stairs have the rush coverings and woe to anyone who steps off the carpet onto the rush. One of the eagle eyed security guards bellows out, “ON THE CARPET, ON THE CARPET.”

After the palace we crossed back to Europe and our bus lumbered up to the highest point in Istanbul for the view and tea or coffee. On the way we passed a playground with the same colorful equipment we have in the states. Off to the side was exercise equipment built of the same material. Adults were working out just as they do in a gym. Seemed like a great idea for people who can’t afford gym memberships or the time to go to a gym. Hope on an outdoor exercise machine on your way home from work.

After picture taking at the high point we went into a restaurant for tea or coffee. Fortunately, I tried the apple tea...very hot and served in a glass. It was also very sweet so no sugar was needed. Alan had a tiny cup of black sludge. It must have been instant something and not well mixed because as he got near the bottom (and that was only 2” down) it literally was sludge and no amount of mixing would help. We’ll stick to Maxwell House.

Back to the ship for a late lunch/early dinner or snack because everyone on the ship had been invited to “The Grand World Voyage Signature Event at the Binbirdirek Cistern. Hosted by the President and CEO of Holland America is was quite a party. Over 1000 passengers and many of the crew were transported to the cistern in a very well organized, orderly bus transport. A red carpet greeted us and we were ushered underground into the cistern.

A word about the most unusual venue for a party. Known as the Cistern of 1001 Columns or the Binbirdirek Sarnici the cistern was build during the reign of King Constantine I, in 330 CE to hold water for the Lavsus Palace. There are only 224 columns but they are massive yet beautiful. All you math people will have to translate the following but the cistern measures 57ms x 64ms and is approximately 14 ms in height. It is enclosed by wall 2.92 ms thick and is a system of vaults and buttress arches.
There was an open bar with anything you could name, champagne, wine, and beer.

If you’re looking for ideas for your next party, here’s a list of the Turkish “snacks” we were served.
Melon and white cheese balls served with raki
Anchovy on rye bread
Green lentil, pepper, cracked wheat, tomato paste with herbs and walnut
Fried zucchini with herbed tomato sauce
Baba Ganush on Bruschetta
Humus in profiterole dough
Grilled Hellim cheese wrapped in chard leaves
Deep fried meatballs coated with cracked wheat
Water borek with spinach
Stick Borek filled with cheese and potato
Deep fried pastry filled with onion and herbed ground lamb
Minced meat kabab with herbs and pistachio
Small wraps with chicken and bbq sauce
Traditional oriental rice stuffed mussels
Lamb Kebobs
Lavash stuffed with spinach, potato, cheese or minced meat

And then there were carving stations where men with long swords sliced lamb or chicken and placed it into pita pockets. They are called Doner Kebab Kioks and can be seen along the streets. And at the evening’s conclusion a taffy ice cream making machine. From the little old ladies sitting on the floor making pita bread to the fire eaters, the belly dancers, and the comedy belly dancer acts there wasn’t a quiet moment. The CEO as well as special guest American Ambassador Ross Wilson kept their remarks very brief. Alan was the hit of the party when he received a kiss from one of the belly dancers.

The cistern party concluded with the band switching to American music and you should have seen the octogenarians doing the twist. There is nothing like an open bar to get a congo line going! The first guests to leave the cistern saw snow flakes but since Alan closed the place up they had disappeared by the time we boarded the bus.

Back at the Amsterdam the party continued with a Chocolate Desert Extravaganza.
The bears at the pool were transformed into camels, Turkish tents surrounded the pool, wine and champagne flowed freely, waiters dressed as harem attendants served us and music played. Shortly before we sailed, we were treated to a fireworks display. And then to bed after an incredible two days in a city we had never given much thought to.

Monday, March 31. At sea.

Noon position. Latitude 42.18N, Longitude 32.55E, Barometric pressure 29.8 and steady, winds 23 knots, air temperature 48 degrees F, water 61. Water depth 6600 feet.

Let’s just say a lot of people slept in. And the conversation all day was of the great party.

Tuesday, April 1 Sochi, Russia rabbit, rabbit, rabbit

We awoke to the sound of the tenders being lowered as one goes right past our window.
Our tour wasn’t until 1 pm so we had a leisurely morning and early lunch. As usual we meet in the Queen’s Lounge, received our bus sticker and headed to a lower deck to be tendered to shore. The day was overcast and foggy so we couldn’t see much of this Black Sea port until we were close to shore. Unless you took a Holland America tour or got your own visa (at over a $100 per person) you could not leave the ship. The tours didn’t look very exciting and our first choice, a visit to Stalin’s summer dacha sold out before we left Falmouth so we were left with a tea ceremony, a trip to a spa and beach, botanical gardens or Ancient Caucasian trees. We opted for the trees and while it was pretty exhausting (and dangerous in spots) it was interesting. The tour took place within the Caucasian Biosphere Reserve. We wandered through a remnant of wild, historic vegetation, sections of it through stone “passages” carved by earthquakes. It is an area of prehistoric plants and trees, cliffs and rivers.

Our guide was asked about the shortages and standard of living in Russia now and he explained that if you had money you could buy anything you needed. In Sochi, a resort town famous for it’s mineral waters and spas, we didn’t see much evidence of the poverty we have seen in India or Cambodia. But, we only saw one town. Judging from the traffic, most people can afford an automobile.

One moment which was a tad scary was when our bus didn’t quite make the narrow turn on the mountain road, went a little off the road, hit a boulder and got stuck. We walked the rest of the way in and when we returned the bus was out of the ditch, turned around and ready to go.

Tomorrow....Sevastopol. Read the Charge of the Light Brigade by Alfred Lord Tennyson because we’re going to the site. Remember

Theirs not to make reply,
Theirs not to reason why,
Theirs but to do and die,
Into the valley of Death
Rode the six hundred.