Wonderful Malta

Wednesday 9 At Sea with a bonus

When we went to bed Tuesday night Alan remarked that we weren't traveling at 15 knots but going much faster. We found out the reason why when we went up for breakfast in the morning. According to those who always seem to know what is going on (or think they do) we were speeding to Malta to have a woman needing hospitalization taken off the ship. Apparently someone had suffered a heart attack Monday night while dancing in the Crow's Nest. It was determined that she needed more medical care than the ship could offer and was scheduled to be taken off in Split. We know that didn't happen. Even a helicopter couldn't land to pick her up.

So it was full speed ahead and we reached Malta about 4:30, the day before we were scheduled. And what an incredible sail in it was. Castles, forts, walls, etc. Another place we cannot describe.

Malta has a long history from the Phoenicians, Greeks, and Turks. The present capital, Valletta was built in 1566 when the Grandmaster of the Order of St. John decided to found a new city after the end of the Siege of Malta in 1565. The Order was founded in Europe by men who wished to give aid to pilgrims and crusaders traveling to Jerusalem. After they were no longer needed in Jerusalem, the Order, the Knights of John or the Knights Hospitaller, wandered from place to place but were chased (by wars) out of every place they settled . (this is a very simplistic version of the story). Finally they were granted lands in Malta and settled in Mdina. The Order had a great deal of money as one of the requirements to join was wealth which upon your death went to the Order. (like extended care facilities now)

The Knights built huge fortresses and walled their cities. Unlike other medieval cities , Valletta was planned and laid out in a grid. One enters through the City Gate and is in motor vehicle free city. Most of the city and it's infrastructure were damaged by air raids in WWII as Malta played an important role for the British and the allies during that time.

When we docked, it seemed to take forever to get the poor patient off. First the gangway was put down. Then fastened. Then wooden ramps were placed at the end of the gangway for leveling. Next the supports for the velvet ropes surrounding the gangway came out. Then the red carpet. Then the mats at the end of the carpet. Then the hand disinfectant machines. Sometime while all this was going on the ambulance arrived. Next came the ship's photographers and their equipment. (They are at every port to take your picture behind a life ring with the port name.) Finally out came the gurney to be loaded into the ambulance. Out came the husband. He was assisted into the ambulance and off they went. I am sure it was all under control but it seemed to most of us that they could have whisked her off a bit faster.

Next came the announcement we had all been waiting for. "The ship has been cleared, you are free to go ashore." And off we all swarmed.

Walking around the port area we were hounded by cab drivers and horse carriage drivers.
A carriage ride stated at 80 euros for an hour but was down to 60 before the end of a block as the driver just wouldn't give up. We passed on the scenic transportation and took a local bus to the city where we wandered around for an hour or so and then walked back down the hill to the ship, just making dinner in the Lido with 5 minutes to spare.
The horses looked very well cared for and pranced along at a brisk pace unlike some of the poor donkeys we have seen in other ports.

Thursday, April 10. Malta

We had a Holland America tour of Malta for the morning and it was a good choice. Our guide was wonderful and we had an extensive walking tour of ancient city of Mdina. On the way we learned that Malta has little rainfall, wonderful weather, tourism is the #l money maker although they do have a PlaySchool factory and some pharmaceutical companies, beer breweries and a small wine making industry.

We arrived at the gates of Mdina and began our walking tour through history, learning that the Knights of St. John became the Knights of Malta and were ruled by a Grandmaster who was elected for life from amongst their members. The Knights were military men, monks, celibate and wealthy. They still exist today and run hospitals and do other philanthropic work.

Mdina was a wonder of narrow twisting street, balconies, barred windows and doorknockers. The windows are called pregnant windows because they jut out in a curve at the bottom. This allowed them to be barred but also to allow the inhabitants to lean out and see up and down the street.

The cats of Malta are everywhere and people put out dishes of food and water for them.
They looked like plain ordinary cats to me. Nothing special.

After wandering Mdina we drove back to Valletta for a bit of history and to see St. John's Co-Cathedral. Very plain and unimposing from the outside, the Cathedral is spectacular inside. Every wall, ceiling, niche and doorway is carved, painted or embossed. The floors contain marble slabs painted and carved with information of the monks buried underneath. Each successive Grandmaster built a tomb or monument for himself, each grander than that of a previous Grandmaster. Mass is still said in the church but it is mostly a museum. The cathedral houses two original Caravaggio paintings, one his signed Beheading of St. John. It may be art but it was pretty graphic.

The Maltese cross is everywhere....from carved into walls to refrigerator magnets. We didn’t buy any---in any form. There isn’t room for anything more than a post card in our luggage. In fact, Alan is threatening to leave most of what we’ve accumulated behind.
I think I mentioned that Holland America periodically gives everyone gifts. We’ve received large dinner plates (heavy), small plates (heavy), mugs(heavy), and more, plus we’ve (read Sandra) bought a few things (all heavy). We are trying to figure out how to get our overweight luggage home without mortgaging the house. Now would be the time to buy stock in FedEx if you’re looking for an investment. : )

Friday, April 11. A Sea Day